Episode 25
Location: Raas Devigarh, Delwara, near Udaipur, Rajasthan 313202
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ack in the mid-80s, I strolled into the waterside café of the Lake Palace hotelin Udaipur and bumped into my friend Lekha Poddar. With her son Anupam,
they were already the formidable trailblazer duo for Indian contemporary
art. ‘I’ve bought Devigarh palace this morning’, she announced, grinning
broadly. ‘We’re going to restore it and create a contemporary hotel inside.’ I’d
never heard of it (but I found it the next day, taking a 45-minute drive north of
Udaipur, just past Eklingji.)
Things to know about Devigarh then. It was a gigantic ruin. Half-collapsedwalls, piles of rubble and chunks of broken white marble lay forgotten on a
hillock above a tiny village, Delwara, where some people still used their in-
house Jain mini-temples dating from when that faith had to be hidden. Surely
Lekha did not propose addressing this mess? But she and Anupam dreamed
big: it had been great, they would make it great again. The hero-ruler Maharana
Pratap of Mewar kingdom, with Udaipur as capital, had given the land to twobrothers loyal to him at the infamous Battle of Haldighati in 1576. Later, their
descendant built himself an ostentatious multi-story palace with a 360 degree
view over the countryside, its frilly arches, multiple courtyards, suites of rooms
and wall-paintings completed by 1760.
Things to know about Devigarh today. Lekha and Anupam achieved theimpossible. They mended the whole structure using traditional methods and
Indian materials. They got water pipes and electrical cables to run discreetly
through the meter-thick walls to make well-appointed guest rooms. They
gathered young artists to paint murals and design floors (many of them now
leading Indian artists). They added pool, spa, gardens, an abundance of public
spaces. No detail escaped their eagle eye. They even built an elevator for guests
who wish to by-pass the wonderful original trail of stone steps mounting higher
and higher to the top bar. I always take the steps, imagining silk-swathed
ladies and turbaned men climbing up and down when the palace was going full
throttle - courtiers, hangers-on, and hundreds of people to cook, carry water,
launder, entertain...
It took 15 years and 750 people to prepare Devigarh for its first hotel guests in1999. The launch astonished everyone: this was India's first super-deluxe
grand hotel created inside an historic palace, using entirely Indian materials
and craftsmen. 100% quality, 100% restrained design that married
contemporary with historic. It set a new bar. Today, Nikhilendra Singh (creator
of Raas Jodhpur) has brought Devigarh into his Raas hotel collection,
respecting the Poddar work, tweaking it here and there to keep pace with ever-
higher ideas of comfort.
Must-do wellness experience: private dinner in Sheesh MahalDevigarh buzzword: see you on the bar terrace for sunset
Ideas for unpacking your kind of slow-down wellness at Devigarh
Eating is a sensory experience in India. Every meal should be memorable.So, indulge shamelessly. Rajasthani cuisine responds to the arid soil. The
great meat dish, formerly made with wild boar or deer, is lal maans (mutton
cooked with a heady mix of spices) but don't miss the ker vegetable. And, as
across the country, Rajasthan has its own take on rice pudding. Irresistible.
Of course, go into Udaipur and tour the well-restored palace. But first, giveyourself a treat and visit the morning vegetable market where you may meet
this jolly vendor of dried milk. Definitely stop at a street cafe for steaming
chai and some bajara (millet) roti with lahsun (garlic) chutney. Sets you up
for the day. Post palace, find yourself a rooftop cafe with lake views.
Tear yourself away from Devigarh for some excursions. One might be toNathdwara, a thriving pilgrimage temple town for worshippers of
Krishna. See the fine pitchwais (cloth paintings) in the temple, and visit one
of many artists living in the town havelis (courtyard houses). Retail therapy?
North of Nathdwara lies Rajsamand, dug out in 1660 by the Maharana toprovide water to the drought-stricken area and prevent migration. Hang out
on the ghats, enjoy the pavilions' marble interiors and meditate on their
intricate carved patterns.
Find your own wonder. In the area around Devigarh, despite the dollied uphistoric buildings (and despite the rampant sculpture looting of anything
old), you can turn down a lane and find a bejewelled goddess in a dilapidated
forgotten temple. Enjoy the moment, and welcome the village kids who
appear from nowhere.
Episode 25: The Imperial, Delhi
It really is time to start planning your Unpacking Wellness experience for 2023!
How will we want to travel?
We are emerging into a more cautious world, one where we perhaps want to move moreslowly, be in control of our interaction with other people, avoid crowds, be outside as much as possible. I am here to help you achieve this in the Himalaya, on the Deccan Plateau, along the coast, in forests, desert and villages.
If you have not traveled with me in a group before ....
Please know that we experience great sights in the best possible way, with lots of add-onencounters and visits to off-beat places. We meet conservationists, curators, craftsmen and musicians, we walk with naturalists, we cook with local chefs. In sum, we imbibe the essence of each area thanks to my four decades of studying and visiting India - andmaking great friends who I share with you.
For private travel ....
I work with you to create your tailor-made trip to any corner of India, to any budget, for allinterests and special needs, for families and parties of friends, for business groups and for
honeymoon couples - India is ideal for everyone!